THE SCIENCE BEHIND FORMULATION : HOW TO KNOW WHICH SERUM DOES WHAT FOR SKIN


COVERED TOPICS


- What a plant extraction is

- What nutrients you can get from face oils versus water-soluble serums

- Why they require two separate steps in a skincare routine


When it comes to plants and obtaining the optimal benefits from them, the method of extraction is one of the first elements a formulator or chemist looks at before creating a natural skincare product. Their composition, in other words, what compounds each plant contains and the properties they can offer to our skin will depend on the liquid used to extract them. Those compounds are extracted from the dry plant with a liquid it ''binds best to'' usually either water, oils or alcohol. The method, liquid of extraction can determine whether or not the product can actually deliver actual benefits and whether you will see results or not. In this article, we will clarify the differences between extraction types and how they present themselves in products (oil serums, aqueous serums) to help you better understand how things work.

Where a plant can contain a large amount of phyto-compounds that can be useful in beautifying or healing our skin not all can be extracted with the same plant extraction process or liquid. The liquid in which they can best be extracted within will depend on their chemical structure and what they can ''bind'' to. The method in which we as formulators and skincare companies chose to extract them before using them to create a skincare product can determine whether or not there are visible results aside from other key factors like the quality of ingredients, the formula itself and they way they are combined. You would be surprised to see how many products on the market have been formulated with the right intentions perhaps, but with no scientific knowledge for efficacy.

Plant extraction is a process that basically extracts and isolates components within plants. It’s a process that separates them from the solid plant into a liquid. Those components like vitamins, minerals, acids, or enzymes that can benefit the skin are then kept within that liquid to be used into the final product.

Nowadays, with the rise of natural skincare being accessible to produce for all, at home and as small businesses there can be a lot of misleading information and product clauses as to what a product can (actually) do. One might label that a product contains vitamin B within an oil infused by a B containing herb, but that vitamin in itself could not have possible been extracted into the product unless the correct liquid was chosen according to the chemistry behind it. Doing your research behind the companies you choose to purchase your skincare products is the first important step in getting an effective product and lasting relationship with a line you trust.

Many products could claim to contain a certain ingredient for example vitamin C in oils which is an example of misleading information: vitamin C is one of those compounds that cannot be extracted and therefore infused into the skin with this type of liquid to the exception of glycerin.

From the different types of liquids used to extract these properties, the main ones are oil, water and alcohol. For oils, oil soluble phyto-compounds are the way in which they can be best delivered to skin. For water, floral waters, distilled water are the best method of delivery to skin.

The first extracts were essentially obtained through aqueous (water) extraction or alcoholic fermentation, and with the help of procedures such as infusions, macerations, decoction and hydro-distillation (used for essential oils). The simplicity of these procedures, as well as the tools, materials and heating methods of the time, meant that the extractor was a man of the arts rather than a scientist. For thousands of years, these methods have been used in practice as the most ancient and time-proven methods of preserving an optimal amount of benefits a plant has to offer without fragmenting, loosing or affecting any parts of them in the extraction process.

In our production process, our founder, has carefully studied through herbalism and naturopathy the science behind these plants, compounds to best assure they will be extracted with a method that protects and maximises results.

From the chemistry behind the ideal extraction process down to the type of product that could best carry those healing properties, three serums were formulated as ‘’essential’’ serums to effectively deliver three of the most essential needs for skin.


Each contain their unique set of specific nutrients and compounds best extracted and delivered with oils

Contains nutrients best extracted and delivered in an aqueous solution


(Nutrients best extracted & delivered in oils)


VITAMIN A

essential for growth and repair of epithelial skin cells; It also helps enhance the immune system to prevent inflammation.

VITAMIN D

vitamin D3 specifically has been proven to help inflammatory skin conditions including dermatitis & help slow down accelerated aging. Where the sun is known to be a good source of vitamin D, its topical D3 alternative is beneficial to skin health.

VITAMIN E

has antioxidant activity - it protects cells from toxic compounds, heavy metals, radiation, u.v rays and free radicals; It also helps preserve skincare products for a longer shelf life, naturally.

VITAMIN K

can help treat a variety of skin conditions - topically. It can speed up wound healing & reduce swelling.

essential fatty acids

zinc

can help treat a variety of skin conditions - topically. It can speed up wound healing & reduce swelling.

(Vitamin Bs, best delivered in aqueous solution)


THIAMINE (B1)

helps make skin smooth & soft + helps increase circulation to help reduce toxin build-up

RIBOFLAVIN (B2)

essential to skin and hair maintenance.

NIACINAMIDE (B3)

exceptionally great for rosacea, redness, evening out skin texture and prevent accelerated aging.

PANTOTHENIC ACID (B5)

helps absorb moisture from the air to keep skin hydrated, keeps skin soft + helps reduce inflammation, relieve ''skin cell stress''

PYRIDOXINE (B6)

essential for skin's development, creation of new healthy cells. This vitamin B has especially beneficial properties for irritated skin & has been found to help dermatitis significantly.

BIOTIN (B7)

helps fight inflammation, protects against acne, rashes, irritations and fungal infections.

COBALANIN (B12)

essential for cell renewal, helps reduce dryness when applied topically.